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+# Density hangs
+Density hangs are primarily a beginner routine. Beginners can start on a large hold,
+one they can hold comfortably (but not a jug), and hang as long as they can.
+Once you can hang for 60 seconds, you can progress to a smaller hold.
+
+# Effort pulls
+Using one hand on a 20mm edge, pull down for 10 seconds. Using one hand will
+preclude the possibility of lifting off the ground for most people, but
+if you can lift your body in this way, add weight until that's no longer
+possible. The idea is to let your body and feel regulate effort. This is good
+for rehab and/or prehab of finger injuries, and can be done more frequently
+than other routines.
+
+# Repeaters
+Repeaters are focused on endurance by doing multiple hangs in quick succession.
+Using a 7-on, 3-off timing for 7 reps is common.
+
+I don't like adding weight to repeaters, for a few reasons:
+
+1. With density hangs or max hangs, if you mess up a hang, you can just
+ rest a bit and try for time or weight again. However, because timing
+ is more important for repeaters, this doesn't work for repeaters.
+ Faffing about with adding weights increases the chances of having some
+ swaying, mis-timing, or just bad setup that messes up a hang.
+2. Hanging on different holds has benefits for repeaters because volume
+ is high for repeaters. This high volume lends itself to repetitive
+ stress injuries, so varying the holds helps with this.
+
+To keep things simple, I find it easiest to follow a guided routine:
+the Beastmaker app works well for this. It's not perfect, but none of the
+problems really make it hard to use.
+
+I prefer to do repeaters after a session: this can make my measurment of
+progress less accurate, but it doesn't detract from the endurance benefits.
+
+# Max hangs
+Max hangs simply hanging with as much added weight as possible, to 3-5
+hangs, each 5-10 seconds long. Longer rests are ideal here: 5 minutes
+is a very reasonable minimum. A 20mm edge is fairly standard.
+
+I primarily train half crimp and three finger drag. Half crimp translates
+well to full crimp and avoids some of the injury potential of full crimp.
+But half crimp translates poorly to three finger drag for me.
+
+I find it's not a bad idea to do these before a climbing session. It's
+unusual for a climbing session to work my hands as much as the max hangs,
+so it doesn't often interfere with my climbing, and usually leaves me
+well-warmed up. I can hangboard after max climbing if the max climbing
+was on slopers, since these barely work my fingers.
+
+I don't like training primarily on edges less than 20mm, because the hangs
+become more condition dependent. It's worth training smaller edges occasionally
+to ensure that the strength gained from heavier hangs on larger holds does
+translate to the smaller holds, but in general I find that this doesn't have
+to be done often for the strength to translate.
+
+# Injury potential
+What follows is a rant.
+
+There's no evidence whatsoever that hangboarding has a higher potential
+for injury than climbing itself. Hangboarding is far more controlled than climbing.
+
+Yes, you can hangboard with poor form and get injured: it's much easier to climb
+with poor form and get injured because climbing form is far more complex and
+hard to assess, and involves a lot more ballistic and harder-to-control movements.
+
+Yes, you can hangboard too much or too hard and get injured: it's much
+easier to climb too much or too hard and get injured because you can't easily
+put numbers on how hard you're climbing (no, grades don't help with this).
+
+There's a strong argument that beginners shouldn't hangboard, but that has
+nothing to do with injury. The fact is that beginners will likely see the
+fastest gains in climbing ability from climbing, and learning climbing
+movement.
+
+However, there are a lot of cases where climbing isn't an option, and hangboarding
+is an option. I have a hangboard in my home: I can hangboard at home but
+I can't climb at home. Similarly, early in my climbing career, I injured my
+ankle, and was unable to climb, but I was able to hangboard. In such situations,
+hangboarding may make it possible to continue to progress your climbing
+when it's not actually possible to climb.
+
+And further, the adaptations caused by static loads such as hangboarding actually
+*prevent* injury. Hangboarding is literally one of the most effective ways to
+rehabilitate an injured finger.
+
+I get hate for this opinion, and invariably that hatemail is a litany
+of anecdotes which don't have any information about what form the people were
+hangboarding with, how often, or at what intensity, which just goes to show
+that people didn't read what is written above. Literally the entire point of
+hangboarding is that you can measure it to ensure progress and avoid injurty, so
+if you aren't measuring it, then yes, you should not be hangboarding.
+
+There's one special case of the above, which is the person who *did* measure
+and then ignored the measurements, went too hard, and got injured. This should
+not be seen as a refutation of the idea that the entire point of hangboarding
+is that you can measure it to ensure progress *and avoid injury*. If you've
+done nothing to avoid the avoidable, that doesn't change the fact that it was
+avoidable.
+
+End of rant.
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