X-Git-Url: https://code.kerkeslager.com/?p=wiki-pages;a=blobdiff_plain;f=elbow-tendinosis.md;fp=elbow-tendinosis.md;h=520d55630b14366686f29b538eccef2772ffd643;hp=0000000000000000000000000000000000000000;hb=b5446eb910c2ed624ae47ad3f3cc3867b6b79e38;hpb=72e0aac0a5c6870cb45ee69f01f487dd75bd8591 diff --git a/elbow-tendinosis.md b/elbow-tendinosis.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..520d556 --- /dev/null +++ b/elbow-tendinosis.md @@ -0,0 +1,28 @@ +Dr. Julian Sanders wrote [Dodgy Elbows](http://drjuliansaunders.com/dodgy-elbows/) +and [Dodgy Elbows Revisited](http://drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-223-dodgy-elbows-revisited/) +which cover elbow tendinosis in greater detail and scope than I am willing +or even qualified to do here. + +To summarize very briefly, the pain is caused by +muscles which, while they connect and hurt in the elbow, are actually controlling +the wrist and hand, so we primarily fix this with exercises of flexion, +pronation, and supination of the wrist (TODO: add pictures). Extension may +also cause pain but is primarily a computer RSI injury, not a climbing injury; +however, working this as training rather than prehab may contribute to climbing. + +The program focuses on lengthening the muscle under load, which forces the +tendon to adapt, while *not* contracting the muscle under load, which forces +the *muscle* to adapt; the goal is to rebalance the tendon so that the muscle +is no longer too strong for the tendon. + +These exercises can be done twice a day, with 2 sets of 20 reps each. + +It's worth noting that strengthening these muscles is a worthwhile pursuit +as well, but with the goal of building grip strength/stability rather than +preventing or rehabbing tendinosis. + +A final note: in rehabbing my shoulder and then getting back into adding weight to +pull-ups, I ran into an imbalance which the dodgy elbows program was unable to +correct, which was causing pain in the inside of my elbow. After a lot of trial +and error, I finally was able to correct this with skullcrushers, which indicates +that this was probably caused by weak triceps.