X-Git-Url: https://code.kerkeslager.com/?p=wiki-pages;a=blobdiff_plain;f=projecting.md;fp=projecting.md;h=a20f01fe084279b1ac347c564ae50d6734f342d4;hp=0000000000000000000000000000000000000000;hb=b5446eb910c2ed624ae47ad3f3cc3867b6b79e38;hpb=72e0aac0a5c6870cb45ee69f01f487dd75bd8591 diff --git a/projecting.md b/projecting.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a20f01f --- /dev/null +++ b/projecting.md @@ -0,0 +1,25 @@ +Credit goes to Louis Parkinson in +[this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fo_7o5SOEOQ) for this advice +(paraphrased to my understanding): + +When projecting, don't treat attempts as if they are worthless, because they +aren't. They have a cost. They cost skin, energy, time, motivation, and +potentially the patience of spotters/belayers, and all of these are in limited +supply. So recognize the value of each attempt and spend them wisely: *only* +make quality attempts. Toward that end, two rules: + +1. Exactly 5 attempts. Fewer than that, and you're maybe giving up too soon, +but more than that, and you're achieving diminishing returns. +2. Don't just jump back on after a failed attempt. Don't get back on until you +can answer the questions a) What did I do which caused me to fail? And b) what +will I do this time instead? + +A few notes: +* "Attempts" is a bit ambiguous. If it's redpoint attempts on a long trad +pitch, you probably have fewer than 5 quality attempts in a session. If it's +working out beta for a short sequence and you have 6 beta ideas, it probably +makes sense to try all 6 betas rather than rigidly stopping at 5. Use your +brain, observe yourself, and be aware of the point where the return-on-investment +for an attempt begins to decrease. I think the point of the number 5 is to +bring to light that this number is significantly lower than is intuitive to +most people.