A bunch of writing on climbing over a few days

[wiki-pages] / elbow-tendinosis.md

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+Dr. Julian Sanders wrote [Dodgy Elbows](http://drjuliansaunders.com/dodgy-elbows/)
+and [Dodgy Elbows Revisited](http://drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-223-dodgy-elbows-revisited/)
+which cover elbow tendinosis in greater detail and scope than I am willing
+or even qualified to do here.
+
+To summarize very briefly, the pain is caused by
+muscles which, while they connect and hurt in the elbow, are actually controlling
+the wrist and hand, so we primarily fix this with exercises of flexion,
+pronation, and supination of the wrist (TODO: add pictures). Extension may
+also cause pain but is primarily a computer RSI injury, not a climbing injury;
+however, working this as training rather than prehab may contribute to climbing.
+
+The program focuses on lengthening the muscle under load, which forces the
+tendon to adapt, while *not* contracting the muscle under load, which forces
+the *muscle* to adapt; the goal is to rebalance the tendon so that the muscle
+is no longer too strong for the tendon.
+
+These exercises can be done twice a day, with 2 sets of 20 reps each.
+
+It's worth noting that strengthening these muscles is a worthwhile pursuit
+as well, but with the goal of building grip strength/stability rather than
+preventing or rehabbing tendinosis.
+
+A final note: in rehabbing my shoulder and then getting back into adding weight to
+pull-ups, I ran into an imbalance which the dodgy elbows program was unable to
+correct, which was causing pain in the inside of my elbow. After a lot of trial
+and error, I finally was able to correct this with skullcrushers, which indicates
+that this was probably caused by weak triceps.