A bunch of writing on climbing over a few days

[wiki-pages] / projecting.md

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+Credit goes to Louis Parkinson in
+[this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fo_7o5SOEOQ) for this advice
+(paraphrased to my understanding):
+
+When projecting, don't treat attempts as if they are worthless, because they
+aren't. They have a cost. They cost skin, energy, time, motivation, and
+potentially the patience of spotters/belayers, and all of these are in limited
+supply. So recognize the value of each attempt and spend them wisely: *only*
+make quality attempts. Toward that end, two rules:
+
+1. Exactly 5 attempts. Fewer than that, and you're maybe giving up too soon,
+but more than that, and you're achieving diminishing returns.
+2. Don't just jump back on after a failed attempt. Don't get back on until you
+can answer the questions a) What did I do which caused me to fail? And b) what
+will I do this time instead?
+
+A few notes:
+* "Attempts" is a bit ambiguous. If it's redpoint attempts on a long trad
+pitch, you probably have fewer than 5 quality attempts in a session. If it's
+working out beta for a short sequence and you have 6 beta ideas, it probably
+makes sense to try all 6 betas rather than rigidly stopping at 5. Use your
+brain, observe yourself, and be aware of the point where the return-on-investment
+for an attempt begins to decrease. I think the point of the number 5 is to
+bring to light that this number is significantly lower than is intuitive to
+most people.